Looking for ZX81 (preferably in UK) to ship to RWAP Software

[tdg8934]

Looking for a working ZX81 reasonably priced to ship within UK to get hardware upgrades performed by RWAP Software

tdg8934 AT gmail DOT com

Thanks,

Tim

[RWAP]

Actually the ZX81 will need to go to Andy Rea as Tim wants a ZX-ULA2 - so a ZX81 with a broken ULA would do!

If anyone has some ZX81s for sale, that is sorely missing from sellmyretro - plenty of other bits of hardware on there though..

[tdg8934]

In the mean time I'm making some offers on Ebay* for TS1000 (as UK systems would have a UK power supply - but could find another US version if need be).

I would like to get all the latest stuff for this system from RWAP Software - UK prefered to keep shipping costs down.

Thanks,

Tim

* I wish they would all state if working or not on Ebay. Seems to have a huge price range from $25 to $250. Only looking at ones that give a positive indication or directly state it is working with pictures.

[tdg8934]

Good news. Looks like I negotiated (best offer) a working TS1000 (with video adapter - not sure what type so I posted question to seller-yellow RCA cable coming out of modulator) with pics showing it works. When I get a response back from him, we'll know if I need to ship it to the UK or not. Either way, I will want the latest stuff from RWAP Software.

I just looked again and he charges $80 to ship internationally. Probably will have him ship to me in Michigan and I find better shipping to the UK for the ULA-2 (if needed).

Update: From the Seller - This unit includes a coaxial connection, screw into any tv. Thanks.

Sounds like it does not have any video modification so the ULA-2 will be needed and I will have to find better shipping than $80 to the UK (from Michigan).

[RWAP]

You may be able to get around the need to send it to the UK (you would only need send the unit anyway - no power supply or RAM pack, so that would save postage)..

The chips are normally all socketed on a TS1000 so far as I know, so you may be able to just swap the ULA and Z80 processor with a minimum of soldering.

[tdg8934]

Are you saying that I could purchase the ULA-2 with instructions and do the "fitting" and soldering myself - without having to ship the ZX81 to the UK?

I have been soldering for over 35 years so I should be able to handle it as an Electrical Engineer also. Let me know - that would really help.

Let me know about how I can get the ULA-2, ZXpand and Sound Card with all the options (ie joystick,etc). Anything else?

UPDATE: Won another ebay (Make an offer) TS1000 (but no information if it works) but only $25 + shipping. Stoping here. Now I'll have (2) TS1000s if the 2nd one works.

Thanks,

Tim

[Andy Rea]

Hi Tim,

if you can unsolder a 40 pin dip, if it's soldered in, personally i cut the pins and remove 1 by 1. then it's a piece of cake. to fit the ULA-2.

you can have a look at the fitting instruction http://www.debraclayton.webspace.virgin ... ulamk2.pdf

Regards Andy

[RWAP]

The only TS-1000 boards I have seen had all socketed chips, so you may well be lucky and not have to desolder anything!

[tdg8934]

I received both TS1000 computers and one works but the other has a broken keyboard connector into the socket so this will have to be replaced. How do you replace the keyboard? It doesn't seem to be removable from the case. It also seemed to be unstable or loose connection perhaps on the power jack. Wiggling it and holding in a certain place to keep the "K" on. But when on, the keyboard did not respond (on channel 2 or 3). Opening them up reveals both TS1000 computers have sockets chips except for the ram chips. Both say ISSUE 3.

Here are the numbers from the chips:

Bad keyboard/power socket computer:
1. Toshiba TMM2016P 2HE4
2. Motorola ZCM38818C 82 45
3. Zilog Z8400A PS Z80A CPU 8233
4. Ferranti ULA2C210E 8244

Good working computer:
1. NEC 22499-20B
2. Sinclair Research D2364C 649 8302P7 1981 <-- Is this a problem for the ULA-2 from RWAP Software (not Motorola)?
3. SGS Z8400AB1 Z80 ACPU 8824G-ITALY
4. Ferranti ULA20210E 8247

Tim

[RWAP]

I do have replacement molex keyboard connectors in stock if you need to replace the connector.

The keyboard is self-adhesive and sticks to the plastic casing. To remove them, I have found the best way is to slide a thin screwdriver or knife through the back fo teh gaps in the case where the membrane tails go and lever the membrane up slightly so that you can get a grip and pull it off the plastic case.

You then need to use some label remover or let it soak for a long time, to remove the excess glue which is left.